Monthly Archives: June 2013

Perfect ending to a perfect day

Perfect ending to a perfect day

The old farm was remarkable. They had cows that gave them the ingredients to make their famous mozzarella cheese, lemon trees and olive trees. Is was so quietly beautiful.
image

image

Robin, Monica, Patty (from Florida), Holly and Kathy listen intently to Rosa explain how olive oil was made.

image

image

The food was once again fantastic. We got to watch Maria make mozzarella cheese – but I’m betting not one of us will ever try that! (Well, maybe Nicole would try. She’s game for anything!)
image

But the real treat of the evening was when Holly and Kathy were selected to come up and make pizza alongside Maria. They were given “special” aprons to wear. They were good sports and even shared their pizza.

Rocco DiSpirito came to Sorrento when writing his latest cookbook. He wanted to work with the real Italian Mama’s and learn how they made their food. Several of the mama’s work at the farm we visited yesterday and they are featured in the book.

It was interesting to go from Capri where the rich and famous play, to the local farms where the ordinary Italians work, all in the same day. If I had to pick one lifestyle it would most definitely be the farmhouse! The pace was slow, the grounds were naturally beautiful and the feeling of family was everywhere. We were there eating and interacting with the large extended family for a long time. When we left it was after 11:00 and the customers had all gone home. The only people still there eating and drinking were the family. They were all gathered around a large table. All the tables were outside with a roof overhead just to keep any rain out, but I haven’t seen a drop of rain yet.
image
They were laughing and talking loudly while the kids and dogs ran around underfoot. I will never forget the beauty of that farm. The geraniums growing so big in the pots, the hydrangeas growing effortlessly in the cracks of the stone walls or the huge barrel of basil that greeted us with that true Italian scent. (The smell was better than the perfume we bought in Capri).
image

Gutsy Women Tours rock!

Gutsy Women Tours rock!

I must say this travel group has more than exceeded my expectations. Our outings have been memorable and fun. But we also have plenty of free time. I suppose they understand us gutsy women need lots of time to shop!

Our tour guide has worked tirelessly to keep everyone happy (thank you Monica and JeanCarla for getting us into the Blue Grotto). And if you think keeping 14 women in line is easy just think of it as herding cats!

Tonight she took several of us to a farm where we watched a woman make mozzarella cheese! Then Kathy and Holly stepped up alongside her and made pizza in the original brick oven. The food was simple – but superb. We were there over four hours learning and eating. (Okay – mostly eating) From the antipasti to the pasta to the pizza and ending with Limoncello soaked cake. With two kinds of Limoncello to drink.

We drank their wine and listened to their history. I left with several bottles of their wonderful olive oil and many memories.

Another wonderful day!

So Beautiful….

So Beautiful….

image
These pictures were taken with my iPhone so they don’t really show how blue the water is. But I couldn’t wait to share them.

I checked and the rocks actually have been named. The first, still attached to the land is called Stella. The second is Faraglione di Mezzo. The rocks provide the unique habitat for the Podarcis sicula coerulea. A blue lizard! The blue color is said to be the result of the amphibian’s vicinity to the sea and sky.

Capri is also said to be the place where perfumes began. They have a legend of how in 1380 the Father of the Carthusian Monastery of St. Giacomo made a beautiful flower arrangement for the Queen Giovanna D’Anglio. After three days the flowers were thrown into the water. There was a fragrance in the water that was unknown to the Father. He went to the Father alchemist who traced the scent back and that water became the first perfume of Capri. The same methods once used by the Carthusian monks for perfume making are still used on Capri. That’s why there is a limited production. That legend was enough for me and Kathy! We each bought our share to take home.

If you want to know how the other half live, visit Capri

If you want to know how the other half live, visit Capri

Tuesday took us to Capri, the vacation hideaway of Emperors Augustus and Tiberius. We traveled by boat and were excited to catch the first glimpse of this mysterious island.

image

It was so beautiful it brought tears to your eyes!

It was so beautiful it brought tears to your eyes!  

We visited the Giagrdini Di Augusto (Gardens of Augustus). The gardens are designed in terraces overlooking the sea.  That's where we captured some of the most beautiful views of the island. Several of us went to the Blue Grotto.  While the cave isn't a huge deal, the trip there and the experience of getting in and out of the boat, into the actual grotto and seeing the light reflect off of the limestone was an experience I will never forget.  Knowing that Roman emperors spent time inside that same space still gives me chill bumps.  Monica was pleased to tell us our group had the best boatman!  He serenaded us with a fine rendition  of image

Capri was right out of the movies. So beautiful! We walked and shopped and stopped for lunch. This trip lets us see how the Italians vacation. The beaches aren’t the soft sand we have on the East coast, they are more rocky. But the water is spectacular. The prettiest blue ever. Crystal clear.

It was here that I ate the prosciutto and melon pizza (before going on the boat ride to the grotto). I was sitting with Kathy, Beth, and Holly and I think they all thought I was crazy when I ordered it. When it came I shared with the others and I bet they would all agreed it was awesome and tasted as good as it looked.
image

No matter how beautiful it looks……

No matter how beautiful it looks……

image
Pictures cannot do it justice. You must come and visit it for yourself. (I’m talking to you Sherri).

image
Our dinner tonight was at a fascinating restaurant. Monica has a friend who is a tour guide in Sorrento. He recommended several restaurants. Kathy and I walked around getting acquainted with the city when she spotted one of his recommendations – Ristorante “‘O Parrucchiano La Favorita”. We wanted to sit outside every chance we had and this kind of looked like we were walking into a hotel. But it did say they had garden seating. The outside of the restaurant does not prepare you for what’s inside. We went up several flights of stairs with tables all around before we were offered a table under a lemon tree. That’s when we realized we were actually sitting outside! We must have been on the roof of the building because it was a lemon grove. The trees were full of twinkle lights and the atmosphere was delightful! The food was great, and the little waiter was very attentive. We shared another wonderful meal in paradise. Antipasto, wine, salad, meatballs and pasta, followed (of course) by Limoncello. It’s a good thing we are doing so much walking!

This was also the night we discovered “Creepy Baby Lady”. Yes, there really is a woman inside that baby carriage. She would move the tiny hands of the “baby” to music. VERY creepy!
image

On our way back from Pompeii we stopped for lunch and a wine tasting.

On our way back from Pompeii we stopped for lunch and a wine tasting.

image
We left Pompeii and drove down a very narrow road in our very wide bus and came upon a lovely winery.

We were greeted by a handsome man who didn’t speak English.
image
He would speak in Italian and one of his waitresses would interpret. We all laughed because it was obvious the young server knew the story by heart, but he wanted to be part of the presentation. He was proud of his winery built by his grandfather.

image
They served us four different wines and a delicious nectarine liquor. Of course along with the wine was more delicious food.

image
image
image
Another incredible “light” meal shared with friends. I left out pictures of the georgous salad and all the wines we tasted. I was too busy concentrating on eating and drinking!

image
image
Here are some of our group enjoying their lunch…. At one table Suzanne, Dorothy and Joanne (all friends from Vermont) shared their table with Ellen (a school teacher from Arkansas). One of the other tables served Holly, Beth, Patty, Christina, Robin and Diana.

We were happy to see our expert driver was well cared for too….

image

Our guides in Pompeii……..

Our guides in Pompeii……..

image
Giancarlo was our guide and Monica our tour Director. I can’t begin to explain how hard they both worked to make our trip special.

The only thing that exceeded Giancarlo’s beauty was her knowledge of Pompeii! And what’s up with her linen? Not a wrinkle could be found! All of the women on the tour were in awe. Monica was equally as beautiful with the quiet soul of an Earth angel. She challenged us on our first day to live as the Italians do….in the moment. The best lesson I learned on my trip! I’ve been trying to enjoy the moments no matter how big or small since Monica presented us with her challenge.

They were a great team! They took us around, showing us the important areas, giving us the history, and making sure we didn’t miss anything. Pompeii was incredible. We heard all the stories of the people who lived and died there. By late afternoon we were all hot and tired. We had just enough time to grab a cold drink and some souvenirs before heading back to the cool air conditioned bus.

Unlike most cities in Italy Pompeii has not been “built upon”.

Unlike most cities in Italy Pompeii has not been “built upon”.

image
The ruins were preserved and yet open. I walked down the same streets and drank water from the same fountain people have been walking down and drinking from since the 8th century B.C.

image
I climbed the stairs to the top of the amphitheater and chuckled at the many “good luck” symbols we passed along the way.

Pompeii – oddly enough a society not very different from our own.

Pompeii – oddly enough a society not very different from our own.

Monday we woke early, ate breakfast and boarded the bus to pompeii. It was going to be a hot day and there was a lot of walking. On the bus ride there Geancarlo gave us some of the history of the area. but all I’ve seen on TV and read in books couldnt match seeing it in person. It was much larger than I expected. We could only travel through a small portion of the entire city, but it was plenty to take in. They had their own version of fast food shops, and even had a red light district. Kathy and I stopped for a kodak moment with Mount Vesuvius as our backdrop.
image

image
Here’s Beth (from Pennsylvania) listening to Geancarlo explain the street front dining. The early form of McDonalds.

More food!

More food!
The pizza was good - but the pasta was AWESOME!  This was our first course to last nights dinner. It was followed by amazing red snapper and a salad with the best olive oil dressing I've ever tasted.

The pizza was good – but the pasta was AWESOME! This was our first course to last nights dinner. It was followed by amazing red snapper and a salad with the best olive oil dressing I’ve ever tasted.

The fish was lightly breaded and had a fresh lemony flavor. The main course was followed by tiramisu and our first taste of Limoncello. A true “welcome” dinner!